Day 14 Mackville to Sonora

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Miles 81.56     Total 856.60     Daily Avg  61.11
Avg Speed 13.7     Max speed 32.6 mph  Alt gain  4045 ft
Temperature  93 degrees

Left our city park campsite at 8:30 am and began riding at 9:15.  We took a detour from the TransAmerican route and headed to Loretta, KY, home of Makers Mark distillery.  We arrived at 11:15.  The first tours did not start until 1:30.  Marker Mark is situated in a beautiful valley with manicured lawns and gardens.  We walked the property and went on our way as we had another 46 miles ahead of our 35 we had already ridden.

The day was very hot without much shade cover.  I went through 7 bottles of water and Gatorade just to stay hydrated.  The winds, sometimes tail winds other times crosswinds helped to keep us cool.

One of my many sisters, Meg, lived in Elizabethtown for many years.  Meg contacted her good friend Gail and arranged for us too spend the night at her home.  What a welcome treat to stay in  such a comfortable home with terrific company.  Gail made us feel very welcome  and prepared a wonderful dinner.  We spent the evening talking and trading family stories.  Her generosity is greatly appreciated.

Tomorrow will be our first rest day.  We plan to drive into Louisville, visit the city and try our hand at Churchhill Downs.

Typical Kentucky scene

Day 13 Berea to Mackville

Saturday, May 27, 2011

Miles 64.62 Total Miles 775.04 Daily Avg 59.61

Avg Speed 14.4 mph Max Speed 35.6 mph Alt climb 3904 ft

In reaching Berea we completed the second of our twelve maps, time to tuck it away as a souvenir. We are progressing along with only ten maps remaining.

We left Berea on a beautiful sunny morning. The road was flat with horse pastures and farm on both sides. After all the rain and cloudy days the birds were out in full force singing as we pedaled along. We soon hit some small rolling hills with steep inclines but very short. This terrain continued for the day.

We completed our days ride at 1:00 and headed for the “Kentucky Bourbon Trail”, no trip to Kentucky is complete without a taste of their fine bourbon. We were only a few miles from the Wild Turkey Distillery where we were given a tour of the distillery and sampled the spirits. Six different Wild Turkey products were available for tasting, each guest could sample two. The three of us each selected two different products and were able to taste all six.  

Tonight we camped in My Old Kentucky Home State Park, Bardstown, KY. The area reminds me of the movie “Sideways” except all the visitors are here for the bourbon not wine. Although there were many restaurants in the area we decided to cook at the campsite. Good decision, as were picked up a steak at the local Walmart and cooked it over an open fire. Even Kelly who does not eat beef had to have a taste.

The campground is like staying in city park.  Our tents are close to a city road, a MacDonald's is located 1/4 mile down the road.  A golf course is located through the bushes.  With the birds singing, vehicle traffic and golf course lawnmower running at 5:30 am it was an early morning.

Roadside visit with the Kentucky locals

Spent our afternoon with a wonderful tour

Bourbon Aging warehouse

Wild Turkey aging

Always the Hokie

Our sampling, take your pick

Day 12 Buckhorn to Berea

Friday, May 27, 2011

Miles 67.56     Total Miles  710.42      Daily Avg   59.20
Avg Speed 14.1     Max Speed 39.3     Alt climb 4580 ft

Awoke to overcast sky's with temperatures in the 60's, a great day for cycling.  We had a long 60 mile drive from Berea to Buckhorn where we had mechanical problems yesterday.  On the twisting mountain roads the sixty miles was over a two hour drive.  It is a little intimidating driving over these roads realizing we are going to be cycling the same distance in a few minutes.  Once we start though, we take it mile by mile never thinking of the final distance.  With so much to see the awareness of our surroundings, the time, and miles, speed by quickly

After 20 miles today, there was a detour, as Route 30 was closed due to construction of a new bridge.  Earlier on our drive out we came up to the construction site and "I" determined we could make it by without the detour.  When we came to the detour signs we went right by them and continued on as usual.  When we got to the site Kelly looked at the situation and said I was crazy, but not quite in those words.  We had to carry our bikes across a little stream and up and a short embankment, no problem.  Remember we have had thunderstorms everyday including last night.  I was more concerned with the poison ivy on the bank that the rushing water.

Just a little stream to cross

The swollen creek was only knee deep.

The state of Kentucky Div of Tourism has initiated a program promoting "The Quilt Trail", local farmers, churches and civic buildings paint large quilts on the side of churches, barns and civic buildings. The quilts are colorful additions to what would be some rather drab settings.

This farmer took the term scarecrow literally, this was one of many in h

is fields

For dinner we took a side trip to Corbin, KY the Home of the Original KFC restaurant.  It is now a KFC and museum.

Day 11 Hindman to Buckhorn

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Mileage 46.54     Total Miles  642.86     Daily Avg  58.44 miles
Avg Speed 12.9 mph     Max 34.7 mph  Alt gain 3343 ft

Waited for weather to clear before leaving hotel in Hazard.  Began riding at 10 am from Hindman along small country roads, mostly going downhill .  After 5 miles we turned onto Rt 80 west which is a major highway for 7 miles. This was nerve racking riding. The road had a wide shoulder with a rumble strip close to the white line.  Beyond the rumble strip the surface was covered with rocks, gravel and coal chips.  A flat tire just waiting to happen while we straddled the white line.  Traffic, including the Kentucky coal trucks, zipped by at max speed and volume.

We turned off Rt 80 and onto more sedate roadways heading toward Buckhorn.  As we approached Buckhorn we could see lightening on the horizon.  We stopped at a store to wait for the lightening to pass.  Deciding the storms were continually blowing through we decided to call Joey and have him pick up up on the road from Buckhorn to Booneville.  We started out on one last climb for the day, figuring we would meet Joey somewhere after the summit.  Half up the climb Kelly's chain broke and lodged in her rear derailleur, snapping it all the way off.  Joey showed up 5 minutes later and we made a 2 hour, 100 mile detour to Danville Bike Shop, in Danville, KY.  Ernest, the shop owner, stayed open late and did emergency surgery on Kelly's bike.  Only in a small town would you receive such friendly and accommodating service. He recommend the "Beer Engine" for Joey and I as we waited for the repairs to be completed.  This city has only recently become "wet" as they refer to it. Thanks to the city council for the foresight.  We had a wonderful time talking with the local residents over a homecrafted beer.

Tonight we are staying in Berea and will backtrack to Buckhorn and complete the ride to Berea.  Reaching Berea is a great relief because it is the end of the Kentucky mountains. 

Is this suppose to look like this?

This is why you have a sag vehicle

Day 10 Breaks to Hindman, KY

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Miles 70.08     Total 596.32     Daily Avg  59.63
Avg Speed 13.7 mph     Max Speed 37.2
Atl climbed 4542 ft       Temp 85 degrees

An eventful day with four long mountain climbs on our ride to Hindman.  Leaving Breaks, we rode along several swollen creeks and rivers following yesterdays rain.  Water cascaded off the rock walls, and in at least on one spot, a landslide had temporarily closed Route 80 which we were traveling on.

Kentucky held true to it's reputation for dog chases.  According to Kelly, the dogs were like zombies. They always hear and see you first, only announcing their presence as they are right on your wheel.  At that instant you have to decide to out pedal it or try and play defense.  It's like they are just waiting for you, sitting on their front porch, watching and anticipating your arrival.  These dogs know it's biking season and we are only the appetizers for the main course further in the season.  My strategy is to be first and get by them before they know what has happened and let Kelly deal with them when they are all excited and wound up.  Kelly usually has a great touch with animal and either handles them playfully or sternly tells them to go home.  The latter works best, especially if we don't want any following us, thinking we are there to play.

The second hazard today were the coal trucks.  They barreled down these narrow country roads all day long.  When we hear them approach we would pull over and give them all the space they need.  One driver did stop and talked while we were on a long uphill climb.  I think he told us we had a long way to go to the top,  the country accent and idling truck made for a difficult conversation.

Joey rode ahead and secured a hotel reservation in Hazard for the night.  He is doing a great job with logistics and planning.  We realize that after 70 miles peddling on a bike a room on the first floor is very  appreciated

Kelly at Kentucky state line

Coal truck headed our way on narrow road.  Driver stopped for a country roadside chat.

Day 9 Rosedale to Breaks Interstate Park

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Miles  45.33     Total Miles 526.24     Daily avg  58.47
Avg Speed 13.6    Max Speed 40.4 mph  Alt Climbed 3533 ft

First climb up A Mountain started after 10 miles.  We caught up with our friends "Three Guys and a Girl", who left an hour before us on the climb.  Again, they are loaded with all their belonging and move at a slower pace then Kelly and I.  There was an awesome, 6 mile descent into Council where we reached speeds of 40 mph.  As we were coming down the mountain dark thunderstorm clouds were forming ahead so we stopped on the porch of Council Elem School just as the lightening started.  We spent 2 hours watching the school children return from rained out field trip to the town park.  The school janitor was nice enough to provide Kelly with a trash bag to use as a rain jacket, which we didn't really need as skies cleared up for the rest of the ride.

We pulled off the porch following the thunderstorm and immediately I received the first flat tire of the trip, to soon be followed by another just five minutes later.  Twenty-three miles and three long climbs remained between Council and Breaks where we were camping for the night.  With our improving fitness level, climbing these  long, and at times 14% grade hills, was no problems.  We keep the thought of the exhilarating decent from the top always at the back of our minds to make the climbing less painful.

Pulled into Breaks Interstate Park on the KY, VA border at 1:45, caught up with Joey and Lindsey, who was visiting from Charleston, WV for the night.  The rain started as soon as we got the tents set up and did not stop until 4:00am.  Although it raining, it was dry and comfortable in the tents.  Sleeping was the night of a thousand naps with the rain and thunder.

When the rain first started we set up a canopy over the truck tailgate.  Here we could sit protected from the rain.  A few moments later the thunder started, this spooked Roxy, who jumped into the truck bed, burrowing herself as far back into the truck as possible, climbing on top of the cooler for security.  I manned the camp while the kids stayed warm and dry in the lodge playing a board game, and running into "3 guys and 1 girl" once again.

Breaks Interstate Park, operated by KY and VA, is called the Grand Canyon of the East.  The Russell Fork River snakes through the steep rock and tower walls.  There are beautiful views from the Lodge,  Restaurant and many hiking trails.  Virginia has some amazing State Parks I am glad we were able to visit Hunger Mother and Breaks on our journey west. 

Good-bye Virginia, Hello Kentucky

"Three Guys and a Girl"

Elk Garden Methodist Church

Waiting out the thunderstorm

VA sign designating our route across the state

Roxy seeking protection from the thunder

Day 8 Marion to Rosedale

Monday, May 23, 2011

47.95 miles     Total miles 480.91     Daily Avg  60.12
Avg speed 14.3     Max speed 36.5 mph     Alt climb 3320 ft 

Rode along Route 11 south toward Meadowview.  As I approached Meadowview I was struck by the severe tornado damage received earlier in May.  Brick houses were torn apart, all the trees were gone or damaged and the structures still standing were without roofs.  It is amazing this area did not qualify for federal disaster funding.

After Meadowview I finally turned west on Route 80 toward the dreaded Hayters Gap and a 4 mile uphill climb with many switchbacks.  The climb was a challenge but not as difficult as I had read.  The climb was not as steep as Crabtree from the first day, but there were no flats or short downhill to give a break.  Constant uphill climb at 7-9% incline.  The four miles took about 25 minutes to complete.  From the summit it was a 6 mile ride to Elk Garden Methodist Church were we spent the night. 

The Elk Garden Methodist Church leaves the back door unlocked and welcomes cyclist to spend the night.  When we arrived after a quick trip to Abingdon for lunch there were 4 cross country  cyclists, already settled in for the night.  They are known as "3 Guys and a Girl"  Leo, Ken, Wayne and Sandy, retired GE locomotive employees from Erie, PA .  We had a wonderful time sitting under a picnic pavilion talking about cycling, our past work lives and life itself.  Later in the evening two young med students cycling to St. Louis stopped to spend the night.  We are extremely grateful to the the Elk Garden Methodist Church for the use of their facilities and floor  space to spend the night.

Trees and roofs missing after tornado

Top of Hayters Gap

Our route across Virginia

Picture does not do justice how steep this climb up

Day 7 Radford to Marion

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Miles 65.81     Total mileage      Avg Daily Mileage
Avg Speed   13.5     Max Speed 33.8    Temperature 87 degrees

Another beautiful day, hot and sunny, sunscreen was definitely required for the first time.  Left Radford at 10AM along narrow country roads.  Came across our first cross country cyclist.  He was a retire gentleman from Wisconsin traveling alone.  Since he was doing an unsupported ride (carrying all his belonging on his bike) we chatted for a mile or so and moved along.  We travel at a faster pace without all the gear.  After about 10 miles we spent most of the day on frontage roads along RT 81.  There was limited shade and traffic noise from the cars and trucks.  The traffic noise was a distraction from the farms and scenery we were passing through.  We passed through Pulaski, Wytheville and are spending the night camping at Hungry Mother State Park in Marion, VA.

After a rough start to the trip Roxy hit her stride today making many friends as Joey and Roxy walked along the lake at Hungry Mother.  People will barely greet you as you walk by, but have a dog with you and everyone wants to be your friend, or at least the dogs friend.

We set up camp on one of the wooden platforms required for camping at Hungry Mother, the terrain is to steep for standard campsites.  It felt great to take a shower after the hot day.  Our first camp dinner consisted of pasta, tuna and a tossed salad.  Not to bad, life is good.  After dinner we each retired to our tents early as severe thunder storms were blowing through.

     

Wytheville, VA

You must sit at the counter for a hot dog and Pepsi at Skeeters in Wytheville

Out for a Sunday Ride along Route 11

Joey was waiting for us in a Walmart parking lot.  Kelly decided to join him.  Nothing says America like sunbathing in a Walmart Parking lot on a grocery basket.

Day 6 Catawba to Radford

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Miles 42.77   Total miles 367.15    Avg mileage 61.12
Max speed 33.8     Avg speed 13.9     riding time 3:01

Beautiful weather day today with clear, blue skies and temp in upper 70's.  A perfect day for a great ride on some beautiful roads.  Blacksburg Road from Catawba to Blacksburg is one of the picture perfect rides in Virginia with rolling hills, mountains, beautiful wild flowers and streams that made the ride go quick.  We left Catawba at 9:30 and arrived in Radford at 12:45.  It was a short ride today because we did not want to get to far from Blacksburg since Joey was shuttling us back to Blacksburg for the night.

Aaron joined us on the ride today.  It was good to have a third rider and the company.  After the ride we dropped Aaron off at his home and Kelly decided to do a 20 minute run back to her apartment.

Yesterday was a major milestone of our trip.  The Adventure Cycling Association publishes cycle maps for various route across the USA.  The TransAmerica Route contains 12 separate maps covering the entire trip.  Yesterday, when we reached Christensburg we completed the first map.  Eleven more to go, time to celebrate.  Lets have a cold beer.

Scene from Blacksburg Road

Kelly, Aaron, and I departing Catawba

Wild flower along Blacksburg Road

Kelly and Aaron Traveling down Blacksburg Rd

VT cycling training route

Blacksburg Road

VT calls this the SMART bridge, it goes nowhere?

Day 5 Lexington to Catawba

Friday, May 20, 2011

61.38 miles    Total Miles 324.8     Daily avg 64.8
Max Speed 35.9      Avg speed 13.7   Temp 68

We departed Lexington at 9:30 for our first full day on the Transamerican Bike Route.  Heading out of Lexington was a nice downhill grade alongside a a fast moving creek filled after recent rains.  Proceeded south along Rt 81 into Buchanan.  We continued south along Rt 11 stopped and had lunch on the porch of the Greenwood Restaurant in Troutville.  Then the last 24 miles into Catawba.  The road into Catawaba was terrific! Lots of hill but beautiful farmland and mountains to the left that looked like a scene from "Jurassic Park" according to Kelly.

Tonight we are staying in Kelly's apartment in Blacksburg.  Kelly's and her friend Aaron prepared fresh pizzas and salads for dinner, which were they so delicious and much needed.  Aaron and his Dad earlier in the trip gave us a ride across the Hampton Bridge Tunnel on our ride out of Va Beach.  Our close family friend Katherine, who is in her fourth year of VT Vet school had a free night from her clinical rotation and was able to join us for dinner.  Kelly and Joey have been friends with her since birth so it was great to see her.

Leaving Lexington

Barn with barn yard cat sitting in second story opening

The porch where we ate lunch

Porch of Greenwood Restaurant.  Enjoying our PB&J

Road to Catawba

After 55 miles on road to Catawba

Kelly's Apartment

Most college apts have posters on the living roon walls. These girls, during the school year, have at least nine bikes in the apartment.